![]() ![]() From the first light fixture run a 2-wire cable to the second light fixture. It will also reduce the number of connections in the switch boxes. You can run that cable directly to the second switch or if one of the light fixtures in the ceiling is in between the two switches you can run a 3-wire cable to the light fixture and then run a 3-wire cable from the light fixture to the second 3-way switch. Run a 2-wire cable from the second 3-way switch to the first light fixture and then to the second. From the first 3-way in room 1 run a 2-wire cable to the first 3-way in room 3.Īt the single pole switch in room 2 run a 2-wire cable to the first light and then to the second light.Īt the first 3-way switch in room 1 run a 3-wire cable to the second 3-way switch. From there run a 2-wire cable to the first 3-way (the one closest to the switch in room 2) switch in room 1. You need to rethink your approach.īring your power into the single pole switch in room 2. ![]() ![]() Second the NEC now requires a neutral at all interior switches with the exception that only one of set of 3-way switches must have a neutral.Īssuming that your room lay out is basically as shown in your drawing and the physical location of switches are as shown. It is known as a single pole switch, just an ordinary light switch. (Disclosure: The Amazon links above have a tag in them pointing at this site, so if you buy things using those links, Amazon will pay me a small amount.First there is no such thing as a 2-way switch. We won't even talk about the other 3-way switched light that I couldn't sort out at all (which is, amazingly, on the same circuit as a few outlets and our kitchen fridge!).īut, at least I now have a better handle on how these lights are wired, and am thrilled to discover at least one Homekit-capable dimmer that works on old switch wiring with no neutral wire. I ended up abandoning using the Leviton Remote I'd bought because the neutral wire wasn't being sent to that box (I ended up removing the switch and connecting the wires together in that box, and using a spare Hue Dimmer Switch I had laying about.) Power passed through to the remote switch, two switches connected together oddly.Īfter sorting that out, I could see how to install the Leviton Homekit Switch (fortunately, the neutral wire was passing through switch box 1 on the way to the light). Compare those wiring diagrams to this one I ended up with after failing to match those diagrams to what I was seeing in the box. When I looked in the past, the wiring didn't seem to correspond to anything I found online describing "typical" ways of wiring 3-way switches. We have some 3-way light switches for our basement lights (each has a switch in the basement, and a switch at the top of the basement stairs). but got hung up on another set of lights. I got one, and was planning on trying it. Turns out, it never completely turns off the lights, letting a trickle of power flow, enough that it doesn't get shut off. But, this article pointed toward one dimmer that doesn't need a neutral wire, the Lutron Caseta Smart Dimmer. I'd given up on those you need neutral and power in order to give the online switch constant power, otherwise when you turn the light off, the switch loses power and can't be turned back on. I've been wanting to install some HomeKit light switches and remotes, and there are two problematic light switches I'd run into.įirst, was some old wiring that didn't have neutral wires in the switch box. This weekend, I decided to sort out the confusing wiring to some of the lights in the house. ![]()
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